Hyaluronic acid is a natural active substance with strong hydrophilic properties and is mainly found in connective tissues, joints and cartilage (it is the main component of synovial fluid), in many other organs of the body and in the substance that surrounds the skin cells. It currently plays an important role in maintaining skin health.
It is one of the most important substances in the skin and is produced, together with elastin and collagen, by fibroblasts. Its presence in the skin makes up to 50% of the total amount in the body.
It is rightly considered nowadays as the strongest natural moisturizing, lubricating, anti-aging and tissue-protective agent. It helps significantly in the rejuvenation of skin cells and the production of collagen in the skin.
The correct selection of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic formulations is an important factor in achieving positive results when applied to the skin.
Hyaluronic acid was discovered in 1934 by the German biochemist Karl Meyer in a laboratory at Columbia University when he isolated an unknown substance in the vitreous humor of a cow's eye, of which hyaluronic acid was a key component.
The name hyaluronic acid was derived from uronic acid and the Greek word "hyalos" (glass) because of the characteristic clarity of this substance.
Its chemical composition was determined in 1950, and it was first applied in Cosmetology in 1981 by Dr. Balázs.
But hyaluronate gained much publicity and motivated further study through a journalistic investigation of a Japanese village, also known as the village of longevity, where men and women aged 80-90 years had youthful skin without wrinkles, flexible joints, no hair loss and enjoyed an excellent health.
It was found that this was directly related to their diet, components of which contributed significantly to the production of constantly new hyaluronic acid in their bodies.
Hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide, a polymeric sugar complex of the glycosaminoglycan (GAG) family, a long-chain polymer consisting of two closely linked compounds, D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, which are repeated numerous times in a linear sequence.
Glucuronic acid binds toxins in the body and helps to eliminate them, while N-acetyl-D-glucosamine is essential for the production of connective tissue in the body.
The longer the linear sequence, the greater the molecular weight of hyaluronic acid, which gives it the unique property of retaining a greater amount of water. It can retain up to 1,000 times its weight in water. This capacity is the reason for its presence in many organs, such as the skin, eyes, joints, blood vessels, brain, heart, etc.
In the body of a man weighing 70 kg, there are about 15 g of hyaluronic acid.
The molecular weight of hyaluronic acid in its natural state varies between 1.5 MDa and 4 MDa (1 Megadalton, MDa, corresponds to 1,000,000 Daltons). The hyaluronate produced by the body has a molecular weight between 1 and 5 MDa. Its molecular weight determines its properties.
Currently, hyaluronic acid is available, depending on its application, in various molecular weights and with specific properties.
Low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (LMW) is an oligomer which can penetrate deeper into the skin.
It contributes to the maintenance of epidermal stem cells, the biosynthesis of collagen, the proliferation of keratinocyte fibroblasts and offers a strong anti-ageing effect.
Medium molecular weight hyaluronic acid (MMW) offers deep hydration, penetrates the protective stratum corneum barrier, replenishes lost moisture in the cells, and has a significant strong anti-wrinkle action, so the skin becomes smooth, elastic and hydrated.
This high molecular weight (HMW) hyaluronic acid remains on the surface of the skin and moisturizes it. It forms a network of protection and moisture retention, thus helping to restore the balance of the hydrolipidic barrier. It does not prevent the skin from breathing, but offers elasticity, youthfulness and provides antioxidant protection to the skin cells.
All three types of hyaluronic acid contribute significantly to the hydration of the skin in all its layers and to the collagen synthesis process and exhibit exceptional anti-wrinkle, antioxidant and anti-ageing action.
Hyaluronic acid in various applications is combined with excellent results with other active substances (vitamins, peptides, plant extracts, collagen, elastin, amino acids, etc.), working synergistically to enhance their action.
Age, and various exogenous damaging factors, such as sunlight, diet and lifestyle, contribute to the reduction of hyaluronate synthesis in the body.
As a result of this reduction, the skin loses its volume, elasticity, firmness, radiance and youthfulness, it becomes thinner, and the first fine lines and wrinkles appear.
Based on all these rare, important and characteristic properties, we can attribute to it a special and unique place in the body and to classify it as a key factor in the service of skin health because:
- · It contributes to the renewal and synthesis of new skin cells, especially of the epidermis, and the production of skin collagen, and prevents the conversion of soluble collagen into insoluble.
- · It enhances the elasticity, natural structure and youthfulness of the skin, and has excellent regenerative, healing and anti-inflammatory action.
- · Due to its strong hydrophilic property, which makes it a hydration regulator, it provides the skin with volume, radiance, firmness and softness, and reduces wrinkles and fine lines.
- · It has a special antioxidant, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle action, protects cells from free radicals and solar radiation and shields the skin from external damaging factors.
- · As a natural component of synovial fluid, it guarantees adequate lubrication of the joints, protecting cartilage from the destructive action of free radicals and toxins in the body.
- · Described as "the elixir of youth", it contributes to the lubrication of the skin, increases its elasticity, and adds shine, vitality, freshness and health inside and out.
- · As a basic moisturizing agent and natural component of the skin, it significantly improves its natural structure and strength, while it does not cause allergic or other adverse reactions.
With all these wonderful properties, hyaluronic acid has in recent years become much sought-after by the cosmetics and food supplement industry because its effectiveness from the outside and from the inside acts preventively and potently to counteract aging of the body.
It is perhaps the only active substance that finds applications in many other areas of medicine.
Nowadays, third-generation hyaluronic acids are safer and of better quality than those of the first generation because they are plant-based and produced by natural biotechnology methods.